Before assembling the full coat, do all of the pockets. This is for a multitude of reasons that all come down to it is just so much simpler. You don’t have to fight the entire coat at the sewing machine or (theoretically) stitch through another layer of your coat (never have had that happen… hah!). I decided to get the […]

Change of Pace

Once the pad stitching was complete (okay mostly I just needed a break from it), I moved on to other sections of the coat. I started with the patch pocket flaps. I used fusible canvas for these and cut the canvas 1/8″ shy of the seam allowance to allow for a crisper edge when rolling the seam under. Once fused, […]


The domette arrived!  I cut a generous piece for each side (about 2-3 inches larger than the chest reinforcement) to work in some of it as fullness while still being able to cover the prickly edges of the hair canvas.  Domette is a thin piece of lofty cotton fiber (think a cross between flannel and quilt batting only much thinner).  […]

Coat Structure… and waiting

Some shipping times are extended because of COVID-19, so although everything has shipped, some items are taking longer to arrive and there were 2 mixups with the hair canvas.  I ordered sew-in and they shipped fusible.  I do not want to use fusible on the major sections of this coat, so I ordered from another company and I again received […]

Carlton Coat Preparation and Cutting

I had spent a few weeks looking for the right wool for the coat and narrowed in on an olive/forest green wool blend tweed.  This was my first time working with tweed, and the preparation of the buttonholes loomed already on my mind.  I chose to do bound buttonholes on this coat as it will afford a little more material […]